During the New Years season in Japan almost everyone will observe “Hatsumode” the first visit of the year to a Temple (dera) or a Shrine (Jinja).  With our friends Ai and Junya we made our way from Osaka to Kobe to celebrate “Hatsumode” at Ikuta (pronounced “ee-koo-tah” although the “oo” can be silent so it sounds more like ”i-ktah”)  Jinja.

History records that Ikuta Jinja was founded by the Empress Jingū at the beginning of the 3rd century A.D.  to enshrine the kami Wakahirume. Wakahirume is sometimes identified as the child or younger sister of Amaterasu (Sun Goddess), or as Amaterasu herself.

This location is also famous because during the Genpei War (1180-1185) the Battle of Ichi-no-Tani took place in and around the shrine. During the battle a young samurai of the Taira Clan named Taira no Atsumori was slain by Kumagai no Jirō Naozane an ally of the opposing faction the Minamoto Clan. It is said that Kumagai was so upset about killing Atsumori that he decided to become a Buddhist monk.

Anyways, enough history, we certainly weren't thinking of Amaterasu or Atsumori that day. We were there to take in the sights, the smells and the sounds of "hatsumode". The first thing on our list was finding a parking spot...not an easy task at the best of times in Japan and definitely more difficult taking into account that there thousands and thousands of extra people in Kobe that day. We did find a parking spot underground and made our way up Ikuta Road towards the shrine. There were many, many people making their way to and back from the shrine. Above our heads were various banners and signs advertising everything Wedding Fairs to coffee. There were stalls of food and souvenirs on the left and the right but what really set the tone was the music emanating from the drumming group which were playing from the Romon Gate (big building that visitors pass underneath into the shrine courtyard). With each step the music grew louder and louder building the anticipation of the spectacle awaiting us.

Once through the gate it was time to try our hand for some good luck. After all, the point of this whole hatsumode business is to seek the gods for good luck during the coming year. The shrine sells lucky arrows (Hamaya), lucky keepsakes (Omamori), five sided wooded plaques (Ema) and finally the lucky paper (Omikuji). Omikuji is kind of interesting, you pay ¥100 ($1.00 CND) and get a small wooden stick with a number on it from a little box (sorta like the lottery which is funny because Omikuji literally means "sacred lottery"). Next, you hand it in to a shrine member who in turn gives you the corresponding omikuji. You then open the omikuji and if it is lucky you put it in your wallet or purse to keep with you throughout the year. If it is unlucky you tie it onto a tree and leave your bad luck at the shrine.

Once you've had your fill of the good luck charms it is time for the main event. The ancient tradition of Saisen (a monetary gift offered as an expression of prayer or reverence at temples and shrines). People can offer any amount of money however the number 29 is quite popular as 29 "nijukyu" in Japanese can be pronounced as "huku" which as you can probably guess means good luck. People make their way up to the front of the Honden (Main Hall) where they will throw their money, clap twice, bow, then clap twice more and you're pretty much good to go.

While we there we noticed that behind the area where people were offering their money there were some Shinto priests performing some kind of ceremony. Kana, Ai and Junya were not exactly sure what the ceremony was for but the consensus seemed to be that is was a ceremony to keep people away from the bad luck. Remember kids...bad luck is BAD!

After that we headed down to the Kobe waterfront to a place called "Mosaic Garden" for some lunch because I'll tell you, trying to get some good luck and get rid of the bad luck in the process makes you hungry. Mosaic Garden is a must visit for anyone spending a day in Kobe. In the amusement park they have a large ferris wheel that offers stunning views day and night. They has lots of stores and some great restaurants. We highly recommend it.

Date Filmed: January 3rd, 2005
Video Length: 5:30
Aspect Ratio: 640x480 (4:3)
File Type: WMV
File Size: 58 MB

Videos have been compressed with WinZip.
Windows XP has unzip built in,
on other operating systems you may need to download WinZip or another utility to open the file.

Back